Not epic, but here is a tardis

The place to show off your epic printing projects. (Pictures or it didn’t happen!)

Moderator: Elijah

PrintMan
Posts: 53
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 12:17 pm

Re: Not epic, but here is a tardis

Postby PrintMan » Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:48 pm

Hmm, did I say this week? I am running into some issues. I am going to try a couple of things and will hopefully post next week.

PrintMan
Posts: 53
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 12:17 pm

Re: Not epic, but here is a tardis

Postby PrintMan » Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:00 pm

Okay Elijah, I finally have something to show. I decided to focus on the 50 micron layers rather than both the 50 and 100 micron. I attempted to print with Slic3r, KISSlicer, and Cura.

I gave up on Slic3r early. It has a cool feature which it can print thicker infills (so say 50 micron for perimeter and print the infill once per 5 perimeters printed [250 micro infill layer height]) for faster print time, but it does not properly slice to fill the inside edges of right angle corners. The infill can actually be seen. See pic below with one of these areas circled in red. The part below has 100 micron layers, but the same thing happens with 50 micron layers. Also, the infill pattern that slic3r comes up with for 50 micron layers (with 250 micron infill) does not stack well, so the infill starts printing into air.

slic3r-print.jpg
Slic3r does not properly slice perimeter (one area circled in red)
slic3r-print.jpg (533.79 KiB) Viewed 1648 times


Next I tried Cura (which I think turned out the best). After mimicking the settings from precision speed from KISSlicer and commenting out a couple of things in the gcode file, it seemed to print pretty well. The Cura print still on the bed and post cleanup are shown on the right in the pics below.

Lastly, I tried KISSlicer. I had it print very precise (slowest speed), took the large default retraction from Cura, and kept the fan on during infill. You can see the KISSlicer print still on the table and post cleanup on the left in the pics below. The print might be made a little cleaner by decreasing the flow tweak parameter. I spent enough time on this though, so I thought this was pretty good.

just-printed.jpg
Just printed parts (50 micron layers), using KISSlicer on left, Cura on right
just-printed.jpg (707.52 KiB) Viewed 1648 times

kisslicer-n-cura-prints-finished.jpg
Finished parts (50 micron layers), using KISSlicer on left, Cura on right
kisslicer-n-cura-prints-finished.jpg (745.06 KiB) Viewed 1648 times


One note: All Cura and KISSlicer models shown have 50 micron layers except the first layer which is 250 microns. ( I found that starting with 50 micron layers was difficult from an accuracy point of view as you (Elijah) calculated in another post. I usually ended up low. This would cause the print to really embed the print in the glass. I had to use a razor blade to get those 50 micron layer starting prints off the bed. Usually, they come off easily once the bed has cooled when layers are >= 100 microns. )

isaac_alaska
Posts: 20
Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:17 am

Re: Not epic, but here is a tardis

Postby isaac_alaska » Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:05 pm

with heated glass, do you apply anything to the glass? or just print pla directly to glass? i haven't been able to print to cold glass at all, but prints pretty nicely with glue stick. i have yet to try 50 micron but now i want to!

PrintMan
Posts: 53
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 12:17 pm

Re: Not epic, but here is a tardis

Postby PrintMan » Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:45 pm

I do not have to apply anything to the heated glass to get the PLA to stick. It sticks pretty well and stays stuck thru the entire printing process even for larger prints. As the 3d print cools off, it "disengages" from the glass due to contraction of the PLA. Actually that last part doesn't really seem to happen if I try to print with a 0.05mm first layer. So I generally print with a thicker first layer of 0.25mm.

I have never tried to print without the glass heated.

Yeah, if you try printing with 0.05mm, the print has a lot less "razor blade" edges if the "bead" width is decreased to about the size of the noozle (0.35mm in my case). I think by default the "bead" width ranges from 170% to 200% of the noozle. Good luck if you do it!


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